Today I tried to determine if the petrol filler pipe was in the right place. To be sure I put the engine in the car, and guess what: It fits! I worked out the proper sequence of fitting: first the petrol filler pipe (impossible to do with the engine fitted), then the engine, next the throttle cable (over the petrol tank) and finally the petrol tank. I hope one of my colleagues at work finds time next week to weld in the needed extension (25 mm) in the filler pipe. There's a crate of Jupiler (beer) waiting for them! When this is done I will refit the pipe and determine how much the last piece has to be rotated (also a cut and weld operation). 

It looks like I have the main loom fitted too far backwards: I put the handbrake connectors through one of the cable grommets, but they wont reach the handbrake lever. The position of the petrol tank connectors suggests that I need to move the loom a bit forward.

The heat shield is glued to the rear bulkhead. While the engine was in the car, I could easily determine the best position. I thought it would be easiest to leave the oil cooler intact, but it's almost impossible to get a radiator hose on the oil cooler, since it's very close to the right hand side rear suspension mounting bracket. I'm afraid the hose would rub against it and eventually wear out.

The engine fits!

Brake pipe refitted and heat shield glued.

The petrol filler pipe is welded. The last section (towards the tank) was cut at the original weld, shortened about 20 mm, and rotated towards the tub. Although it's very difficult to get the rubber hose in place, it all fits now. The opening in the tub is enlarged to accept the 2 breather hoses. Everything is out of the car now for painting, so it will be ready for (hopefully) final mounting once the engine is in place.

The petrol tank (and lots of other parts) are painted: thanks Dad! I closed the unused breather pipes with a 8 mm and a 6 mm pipe fitting. The fittings were welded shut before fitting them to the tank.

I cut the holes for the heater controls. There was a surprise in the hollow space behind it! A piece of sanding paper was left behind. It's a good thing my car is LHD, otherwise I never would have found it! I hope there's nothing in the space on the other side.

Petrol tank painted and breather pipes closed off.

Sanding paper surprise!

Yesterday I received a fax from GTM for the modification of the timing belt cover. Taking the cover off the engine proved more difficult then sawing off the piece that held the power steering pump. After careful vacuuming of the saw dust everything was fitted again, using a light-duty loctite on all the bolts. I also fitted the alternator and engine mount. The belt could have been a little shorter, since the alternator is almost on the end of the adjusting bar.

While I was working on the engine, I took another look at the oil cooler. It looks like it's possible to swap the 90° connection with the straight one. This way I can retain the oil cooler, because the heater hose won't be as close to the rear suspension mounting bracket. On the other side the hose will be closer to the exhaust, but I think this is acceptable since there is a heat shield around the hose.

Finally, I modified the 3rd door lock (for the boot lid) to match the key of the other locks. I got instructions for this from GTM (and had my doubts) but it works brilliantly!

Removed piece of the timing belt cover.

Modified timing belt cover fitted on engine.

The alternator is fitted.

Can I exchange the 2 hose connections on the oil cooler?

Yesterday I fitted the beam end covers. I wasn't satisfied that 2 screws (as the manual says) are enough, so I put an extra screw at the bottom edge and a bolt and nut in the lip at the top. They're off the car now so the inside can be painted.

I fitted the rear lights in the engine cover. The engine cover itself will only be attached after the engine is in. The reversing and fog lights will be swapped after SVA to meet EU regulations.

Today I had 2 visitors. They're building a Spyder and it was very nice to discuss building issues.

Left hand beam end cover

It looks a lot better with the rear lights in place!

My dad spent the day painting the inside of the bonnet, engine cover and various small parts. The contrast between black and yellow looks really great!

Tonight I fitted the headlamps, driving lamps and the front side lamps. I don't have the front indicators yet, so they'll be fitted later.

The (RHD) headlamps will have to be exchanged for LHD units after SVA. I got the part number from Harry: Valeo 082 372 H4.

Inside painted black

Last night I fitted the door window channels. I was a bit scared by all the posts about this subject on the GTMOC forum, so I was careful. First I thoroughly cleaned the rubber and the inside of the channel, then I glued the rubber to the glass. I clamped it between 2 small wooden beams and let it sit during the coffee break. I fixed 2 wooden beams firmly to the top of my workbench, one along the top side and one along the "A-pillar" side, with the glass sticking out over the edge of the workbench. I used a large rubber mallet (the kind that's used for laying pavement) and the channels went on without any trouble.

I put together the glass and the winder mechanisms for both doors. The instructions in the manual were very confusing for me, so I tried to find my own assembly order. I also have no clue what petroleum jelly is, so I used Teflon spray in the rubber channels, which made operation much lighter. The nut on the bolt that holds the top stop just hit the glass when the window is fully winded down. I used a piece of adhesive rubber foam on the end of the mechanism. To make sure that it won't come off, I put a short piece of bicycle inner tire over it.

Window winder mechanism

Close up of rubber on mechanism

Today I made the holes for the latches, locks, door handles and mirrors in both doors. It is very easy to misalign the template drawing for the latches, so I determined the position for the clearance holes myself. I'm quite happy with the result, but on one door I made a few scratches with the Dremel, so this will require some gelcoat and polishing.

When fitting the door handle mechanism, I found that the button was off center to the hole in the handle. This was solved by elongating the holes in the handle mechanism. Now the button is nicely in the center and runs freely. All the holes for the split pin had to be drilled to 3 mm for the split pin to fit. One of the studs on a door handle unfortunately broke when I tightened it, so I'll need to buy another one. I think it's actually the tailgate handle of an Opel Astra ('91-'94).

Latch fitted in door (edges to be painted)

Door handle fitted, lock will be fitted when I have the retaining clip

Door handle mechanism

Work on the doors continued tonight. First I modified the mirrors as described in the manual. This was a very simple job.

I made the holes for the glass in the front and rear of one door. I did this very careful but nevertheless a flake of gelcoat came off at the edge of the door, when I accidentally hit it with the glass. This will be a very difficult place to repair. At the front it is impossible to keep the hole 10 mm wide until the end. I took a lot of filing to get this far, since the door is almost solid fiberglass at this point. I'm not sure I've opened it up far enough, so if someone knows, please tell me.

The inner frame is fitted with four countersunk M6 screws. I think it's very strange that normal washers are used with these screws. I think I will change this by using some specially made sunk washers or by button head cap screws.

Slotted hole for glass at the rear

Today I had a visit from fellow V6 builder Robert. Last week he picked up his engine at Reyland and he brought several parts with him for me. Thanks again, Robert! The most important items are the slave clutch cylinder and the engine mount with rubber thrust washers.

In the afternoon I fitted the red seat belts that I bought yesterday, together with a pair of GTA seats. Since I have 2 pairs of seat belts, I had plenty of long enough bolts for all the fixing points. Last week I also fitted the door hinges to the car and the hinge bushes to the doors. I also opened up the slotted hole in the front of the door a bit further.

Engine mount with rubber thrust washers

Seat belts are fitted

Tonight I filed off a part of the engine mount to get (hopefully enough) clearance between the mount and the engine frame. On the engine frame I had to grind a bit away of the smallest vertical plate. There goes my beautiful powder coating!

I made the holes for the glass in the other door and started fitting the door trim panels.

Filed off engine mount on engine, thrust washer taken off for clarity

Engine frame slightly modified, GTM supplied bolt is a little bit too long!

Work in progress on inner door handle

Little progress this weekend, because Saturday I visited the new years reception at Oracle. I received a lot of parts from Dudley and Gareth. We also discussed a bit of bad news: GTM has discovered that the position of the engine in the frame isn't correct, so it will need to be replaced by a new one, which GTM will make for me. I hope to receive my TF steering rack shortly, so I can continue the build on the front end of the car while I'm waiting for the new engine frame. 

Today I mounted the front indicators and the lower rear suspension arms. The threaded bushes on these had deformed slightly in the powder coating process. Due to the strange thread size a special tap had to be made to reform the thread in the bushes. 

All the front lights are in place!

Lower rear suspension arms fitted

Several odd jobs were undertaken the last week. I got some lock retaining clips and a door handle from the scrappy, so I could fix the locks in the doors and make the rods for the locks and the door handles. I also bought some washer jets, these were fitted since they are still easy to access now. Tonight I started work on the boot lid: the hinges are in place, but the lid still needs to be aligned. I had to grind away part of the black plastic inside of the boot to get clearance for the right hinge. There's a small hole in the boot now. This will be easily fixed with some resin from the outside.

Rods on lock and handle fitted

Washer jets from outside

Washer jets and hose from inside

Boot hinges in place (to be aligned)

The heater is now fully modified for LHD use. On 2 valves the rods were moved 8 mm towards the control side. On the third valve the rod was rotated to mirror the original position. After the cutting and welding it was necessary to glue new rubber foam on the valves. Al the controls are now on the other side of the heater.

I also glued anti-drumming (Merford Vibraflex ST5) in the inside of the door.

Modified heater valves

Heater controls on LHD side

Anti-drumming in door

Not much work was done this weekend, because there was a meeting of the Dutch kit car club. Tonight I repaired the hole in the boot near one of the hinges. The lock and latch were fitted in the boot lid. I found a grommet that fitted in the hole for the connecting rod, without troubling lock operation.

Boot latch fitted